Rugged, Volcanic and Full of Water
Tsavo West covers roughly 7,065 square kilometres on the far side of the A109 highway and the old Uganda Railway line, which is what separates it from Tsavo East. Where its neighbour is flat and open, Tsavo West is broken country — volcanic cones, lava ridges, rocky outcrops and thicker bush — and that makes game viewing more of a hunt and the scenery considerably more dramatic.
The park’s centrepiece is Mzima Springs, where some 50 million gallons of water filtered through the Chyulu Hills surface every day into a pair of crystal pools. An underwater viewing chamber lets you watch hippo and crocodile from below the surface, and the springs feed much of Mombasa’s water supply. Nearby, the Shetani lava flow spreads black and jagged across the plain — the name means “devil” in Kiswahili, after the eruption that locals witnessed a few hundred years ago.
Tsavo West shares the man-eater history of its eastern twin: in 1898 two maneless lions killed railway workers at the Tsavo River, a story that has followed the region ever since. Today the park is better known for elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, giraffe and a bird list that includes species scarce elsewhere in Kenya.