Born Free Country
Meru National Park covers about 870 square kilometres northeast of Mount Kenya, in a belt of country where thirteen rivers run down off the highlands and cross the park towards the Tana. That water supports doum palm groves, riverine forest, open grassland and swamp, giving Meru a green, layered feel that is unusual this far north and east.
The park is inseparable from Joy and George Adamson, who released Elsa the lioness here and whose book Born Free made the place famous. Meru was badly hit by poaching in the 1980s, losing most of its rhino and much of its elephant. A long restoration effort, supported by the International Fund for Animal Welfare from around 2000, brought it back, and a fenced rhino sanctuary within the park now holds both black and white rhino.
Meru rewards visitors who want space. Elephant herds, lion, leopard, cheetah, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra and lesser kudu are all present, and the park receives a fraction of the traffic that the Mara or Amboseli see. Views back towards Mount Kenya close the western horizon on clear mornings.